London Blogging

London Blogging

Sunday, September 25, 2011

Settling In

I'm annoyed. I just typed a couple of paragraphs, and then my computer BSOD'd and restarted (thanks windows updater!) and I expected that I would be able to just pick up from the third paragraph or so, because it assured me it was saving my draft as I wrote it every few seconds. I open this page back up and all it saved was the draft. As in, it saved the title. And deleted all the words. Grrrr.

Anyways, you'll all have to guess how I spent last Sunday and Monday because I don't feel like typing it again.

Just kiddddding. Sunday I went and watched the Saints crush the Bears at Bodeans' BBQ, a southern-US themed restaurant/bar within walking distance of my apartment. It was lovely, I had a blue moon, watched NFL football and was, as usual, one of two Saints fans in the bar. Actually, it's usually just me. Monday I was awoken by a faint tapping at my door, while my still sleeping brain was trying to figure out if someone had actually knocked on the door, I heard my door being UNLOCKED from the outside! I freaked out, and was like WHAT?! I'm not dressed! WHAT ARE YOU DOING! The maintenance man, who has the same accent as Bricktop from Snatch, was all "Sorry sorry sorry I'll come back later. So I went back to sleep. The same thing happened again half an hour later.

After my morning ordeal I traveled to Camden to try out a Brazilian Jiu Jitsu school. Camden is a cool area, north across the river from me, that is easily accessible to me by Tube. It has a high street lined with stalls selling souvenirs, t-shirts, tattoos, food, etc. And a lovely canal that meanders through the neighborhood. It also has a surf shop! Really its a surf/skate/snow shop and the "surf" part is in the basement in a cupboard under the stairs (fer reals). It has four surfboards for sale, plus a rack of wetsuits and some hoods, gloves and booties. Actually they don't have any more hoods, I bought the last one at a steep discount, so no complaints here. The BJJ school is on the second floor of an industrial office block. It has the mats on the first floor and a changing area upstairs. Above it all is a really cool skylight, for all those days of sun here, I'm sure. I showed up for the 12:30pm afternoon class. There were about five regular students and another boy who was a prospective student like me. For the first time in my entire life I was the highest ranked person in class (other than the instructor)! Two stripes > none. Once we started rolling I held my own, but at one point I rolled no-gi with someone who either misunderstood my question (how long have you been training) or I misunderstood his answer (2 weeks) and he had me in a neck crank in like two minutes flat, which I had never seen before. I think maybe because most people don't use neck cranks? For safety? After class I hung around with the other prospective student and chatted with Nilton, the blackbelt who owns and runs the school. After an hour or so, he took us down the street to grab lunch and paid for it when we turned our backs! That, plus the fact that his wall of flags that indicate the countries of his students includes an Israeli flag (which he pointed out they will not sell in London, a fact he finds stupid), convinced me to sign up with his gym. In return he gave me the student price, the same as for three classes a week to train as much as I have time to train.

At home I had another weird encounter with that boy in #4 (who as of this writing has moved out and been replaced by a nice German boy), I was about to leave the flat, and I heard a key in the lock so I waited for the person outside to open the door (which locks automatically). A boy I didn't recognize walked in so I introduced myself, figuring he was a roommate. He introduced himself as a friend of the person living in room 4. So this weeks mystery is why the F did this rando person have the key to out apartment? Either way the kid moved out the next day, and I was glad to see the back of him. I don't need total strangers having access to the communal living space. That night I did get a chance to meet the other flatmates. A boy from Pakistan, a boy from India (who was moved to another dorm b/c ours is only for 50 week contracts) and a German boy (who has moved for possibly the same reason). We stayed up for a few hours in the kitchen/dining room chatting about the area and the school and adjusting to life in London. They were the ones who revealed that we could in fact connect to the internet without first registering at the school!

Tuesday we (my other American flatmate) put that knowledge to use and re-connected with the rest of the world! No longer will I have to haunt the High Street for wifi access. This meant I spent most of the day huddled over my computer researching cell phone packages etc. The only interesting thing I did was leave the apartment to go get some stuff for my apartment at Tescos (which is a Target-like store about a mile away), the day ended with a four-hour nap and the two final episodes of this season's True Blood.

Wednesday I walked to LSE, the path takes you up the Borough High Street, through Borough market, down past the Southwark (pronounced Suffolk - its also the name of my area) Cathedral, through narrow cobblestone streets, past ruins of banquet halls and the "Clink" prison (where the term "the Clink" comes from!) then out along the Thames, past the Globe Theatre and then once you reach the TATE Modern, across the Millennium pedestrian bridge, up to St. Pauls cathedral, at which point you turn left and walk along Ludgate Street until it become Fleet street, and past the Royal Courts of Justice which are right next to LSE. It only takes about half an hour and it's not difficult in the slightest. I think from now on I will aim to walk to school as much as I can while the weather holds. At LSE I inquired as to my registration fate, having forgotten the REQUIRED official offer letter, buried somewhere in my grandmother's garage in Venice. Turns out "required" didn't actually mean required and I would be allowed to register. With this good news I walked back to school, stopping along the way to pick up a mini-heater, glassware, more school supplies, etc. I was quite weighed down by the time I tramped across the millennium bridge. I did have one strange incident on the way home, when I stopped to exchange money at a Barclays and a hundred and forty of my dollars were refused because they had a bit of pen or a stamp on the bills, and thus could not be sold back. Luckily the post office wasn't so picky. That night my American roommate and I went to Covent Garden (an area near LSE) via Double Decker bus for a night out, grabbing dinner and drinks at a few pubs in the area and walking around the square. We also walked by the National Opera House (I think) where I noted that Rolls Royce in Europe are literally half the size they are in the U.S.

Thursday I met up with Valerie, the other USC girl on my program who is also living in Sidney Webb. We got lunch at the Borough Market and then walked all. over. the. entire. city. in the search for bedding. I'm not sure I've ever been so footsore in my entire life. I was literally limping the last two blocks once we caught the bus back to the residence hall. BUT look how beautiful my room looks now! What follows is a virtual tour of my room. To begin, the view from the door, looking in from the hallway.



The closet is behind the open door to the right. Note that the window is covered in faded red and green checks and imagine how that looked next to the old bedding, which was NEON GREEN and blue squares. Below is the current, significantly improved, bedspread. It has made getting out of bed in the mornings almost completely impossible.


On the other side of the room, as in a four feet away, there is this lovely desk

To the right of the desk is the closet - note that the two rods are in the closet from front to back

And finally, the bathroom, which is across from the closet: 


Hope you enjoyed the tour! 

To continue with my rambling, Thursday night, after meeting two new Chinese roommates, CeeCee and Ting, my new German roomate, Daniel, old German roomate, Chris, Pakistani roommate Sayd, Kazakhstani roommate Yarshon, American roommate, Marissa and my friend Valerie and I went across the street for some get-to-know-you drinks. It was a chill night, just sitting outside, drinking beers and chatting, although at one point a very drunk lady with a very confused accent approached us to complain about the American tradition of eating really fattening foods at Thanksgiving and then to rant about the over-protectiveness of British mothers. Otherwise it was uneventful. 

Friday Valerie and I walked to LSE for registration, which I was pretty sure was going to be a nightmare, especially without an offer letter. But instead we just walked right in, they scanned my passport, handed me my LSE ID and we were back outside, blinking in the bright light of day within 10 minutes. We used all the extra time to take a campus tour, then grabbed lunch with a couple of Turkish LLM students while we waited to pick up our orientation packets. Once that was done I decided to walk down to Buckingham palace, a couple of miles away. It was a nice day and I just strolled along, down the Strand, past Trafalgar Square (which was hosting a Malaysian cultural festival) and then through the Victory Arch and down the Pall Mall, which is pronounced Mal. Like if you were saying something was "bad" in Spanish. Mal. Hahaha those British. 

Anyways I meandered under a gorgeous covering of trees, past Clarence House (residence of the Prince and Duchess of Cornwall - I think) and then to Buckingham palace, which is pretty big and impressive and does in fact have guards with funny looking hats and big guns standing, and at times marching stiffly in front of it. The gates are big and gold, as is the front door and it's all very alien to me, the idea of living some place like that. They do have tours for the next week or so (only July through October) so if I have time I may try to go back and see some of the state rooms. On the way back I walked the other side of the street which is (maybe) St. James park. It looked like a beautiful place to spend a nice day, but for some reason I kept going until I was back at LSE before I pulled out my orientation packet to read. After a long day of meeting people, I decided to skip the US students mixer and went to train instead :). 

On Shabbos I didn't do much, just walked up to the Borough Market with Valerie, which has things that look like this

Gooseberry and elderflower jam! Which you can put on your
"Cholla Bread" or 

Big freakin English muffins. And in a "wow it really is a small world" twist, as we were walking out of the market someone yelled "Valerie!" and it was a couple of USC students on their bar trip! I spent the rest of the afternoon resting and then that night went out with a Canadian LLM student and Valerie in Shoreditch, which I have heard can be compared to Williamsburg in Brooklyn. It was pretty hipster but the people were generally pretty helpful, like when we were standing there looking at a map and a bunch of British guys gave us directions. We ended up at Huxton bar, where we managed to queue jump thanks to Valerie's slick be-friending of a boy near the front of the line and in minutes we were inside. Where they played things like "Florence + the Machine" on the dancefloor. It's really hard to dance to songs like "rabbit heart." So that was not my favorite part of the night. But it was a fun night out and on the way home we stopped to ask a policeman for directions, by interrupting the three friends who were trying to ask him how they could find what hospital their friend had just been taken to. I still feel a little guilty about that, but the real question is why did the policeman answer us instead of them?

Anyways that brings us up to today! Today I played soccer. The end. No really, that's like all I did. I woke up, I played soccer, I was still the only girl. I did not play nearly as well as I did last week but I was a BOMB goalie this time. I met our last roommate, an American boy from Iowa (or maybe Idaho, but I think Iowa) and now I'm going to go watched some NFL at the Sports Cafe.

Sunday, September 18, 2011

First Impressions


I guess I’ll start this first blog post with some housecleaning, namely a shout-out to Nick Cave and the Bad Seeds for providing the name from the title of one of his songs. I haven’t really decided on how I plan to format these posts and reserve the right to change it up whenever, the one thing I have decided though, is that I will try my best to post every Sunday afternoon. 

My trip to London was uneventful in the extreme. I flew a short hop from BWI to Boston, made the mistake of following the signs to Terminal E and emerged half an hour later from the bowels of Logan airport in the international terminal (apparently there’s a bus that makes this changing terminals much easier). My friend Anna from the summer was a rockstar and came out to meet me during my layover while I frantically tried to call all of my credit cards and alert them that I was leaving the country for the year. This was also the moment that I realized I had overlooked my credit card payment due Sept. 7th and was treated with the utmost suspicion by the woman on the phone when I took it upon myself to call and make the payment “but how are you planning to pay the NEXT ($40.) payment due October 7th” “none of your damn business actually” “it is my business because I’m in collections” “No, I’m afraid collections doesn’t mean concerning yourself with payments before they come due” “well what was your hardship this time?” “Forgetfulness? Brought on by a little life-change called moving to another country!” Luckily my experience with the Verizon customer service made it all better, as I waited to board the plane I called to suspend my service, something you can apparently only do for 6 months, but the saint on the Verizon side of the call placed me on active military status abroad for the next year and all was well.  

Once on the plane to Reykjavik at 9:30pm, it dawned on me that the flight was only 4 and a half hours, which meant we would land at 6am Iceland time, 2am my time. This, combined with the half-an-hour nap I caught on the plane and a drizzly cold day in Iceland, plus the horrific cold I’ve had for a week convinced me to stay in the airport for the 10 hour layover. What was truly awesome about Iceland though, is that you have to get your passport stamped even if you just stay in your airport, then stamped back out once you go to your gate, which you can only do an hour before your flight. The airport was truly gorgeous, with lots of glass walls and Jerusalem like stone on some. When I arrived at 6am it was bustling, shops were open, cafes were open, I lay down on a couch in the café area and while I was aware it was quieting down, and then there were sounds of cleaning it was still creepy when I woke up at 10am and realized every. Single. Person. Had left. The café was closed, the shops were closed, and I was the only living being left in this wing of the airport. I slept until around 2pm when I was joined by an Israeli and eventually his wife, who offered me dates (the fruit) and told me stories and spoke to me in Hebrew until we boarded the flight. Dad, he says that because America is a failing empire you should move your family to Israel, when I told him what you do for a living he pointed out there are TONS of synagogues in Israel. Just saying.

 The flight to Heathrow was another of about 4 hours, I watched Crazy Heart and think maybe Maggie Gyllenhall (sp?) deserved more acclaim than Jeff Bridges but it’s been out for so long I’m not comfortable engaging anyone in dialogue about this movie. When I arrived I was disappointed to discover my luggage had arrived with me, but the best thing about Heathrow is that the luggage trolleys are FREE. So I took two. My duffle bag chose that moment to explode, giving up on life completely. I changed money and checked my email at a small station near the exit, and was delighted to see that the LSE accommodation staff had deigned to answer my increasingly frantic and finally downright nasty e-mails asking if I would be able to move in late Thursday night when I arrived. I had already booked my ride through hotel-by-bus for the next morning but they switched it to that night for me. The “bus” was a minivan, the driver was a wizard who managed to fit my luggage in the back with two other bags (I had five). The drive itself was nauseating, I was sitting in the front, frantically pressing down on the non-existent brake pedal in front of me every time we got too close to the car in front of us, unable to convince myself that the well-being of everyone in the car was NOT my responsibility. After arriving at the residence hall I asked the security guard if I should tip the driver and got a “hahahah oh you Americans, always trying to tip everyone” response, so I just thanked the driver and hauled my bags inside. I made the mistake of buying the “bedding package” which was as far as I can tell, designed by someone with a deliberate eye to clash horribly with the room curtains. 

Friday I spent wandering around the neighborhood, changing money, running errands, unpacking, etc. Spending money is difficult because I have to adjust to recognizing the new coins, but I’m learning. I explored the Borough market – like a nearby farmer’s market – walked across the London bridge to the Monument (very impressive, I think it commemorates some big fire), and found the nearest big grocery store. Late that night I walked across the Tower Bridge (way more impressive than the London bridge actually, although the London bridge has pretty lights on the side at night). At the end of the Tower bridge is the Tower of London. I thought it would be bigger. It’s hard to even tell which tower is THE tower. There are four of them. And THE tower keeps being identified on the information plaque as the one that was painted white. But it hasn’t been since the 1700s so that’s not very helpful now is it? There is a nice walking path around the Tower that I took and I checked out the ticket prices, about 20 pounds/adult, so I think I might save this until my parents come because I don’t really want to pay for entrance more than once. 

The next day I finished unpacking and did more walking around, this time along the Borough high street away from London (so I guess South?). My room finally came together, everything was unpacked, the only thing I don’t have (still) are skirt hangers, so for now my skirts are just draped over my chair. The weather on Friday was gorgeous but Saturday saw the first random rainstorm, which disappeared within an hour but left quite a chill behind it. Saturday night I met up with a partner from the law firm I worked at over the summer in Trafalgar square. I took the Tube there without any incident, but once I arrived at the stop it took me about 15 minutes to figure out how to get to the Sports Café we were meeting at. Also I have trouble pronouncing TraFALgar Square correctly, the temptation to place the emphasis on the first syllable trips me up every time. Anyway this place played a lot of the NCAA football games on a lot of TVs, unfortunately not the MD game but you can’t have it all. I thought the Tube closed at 12:30 or so, based on the last train information out of Borough station, but when I got back to the station it was closed to I got to ride in one of the famous black cabs instead. 

Today, Sunday, I had seen a sign in the residence that said “Wanna play football? All levels of experience and gender welcome, meet Sunday at noon at the reception desk.” I took the sign up on its offer and met a couple of boys who took me across the street, literally right across the street, to a small public pitch and playground and basketball court and ping pong tables. I know the sign said “all levels of experience” but it’s been over 7 years since I’ve played soccer and none of the people playing looked “inexperienced.” I was of course the only girl, and super nervous to not completely embarrass myself. I managed in fact to embarrass myself almost immediately by ducking instead of heading a ball coming right towards me, but I made up for it the rest of the games by being right where the ball was at times when almost everyone else was not. We played one game to a draw and won two more, lost the last one (my fault but I TOLD them I was not qualified to be goalie). It was a really fun time, when I left I was complimented on playing well by a one of the non-LSE people on our team, I assume he said the words “for a girl” in his head J. Hopefully I’ll have time to go back next weekend.

 Random notes: 

The living situation is very much a dorm. You enter the flat into a communal hallway, there is a very large communal kitchen behind one of the doors. The rest of the doors are just into the rooms. It’s small, but everything seems to fit and there is as promised an en-suite bathroom. A third-world bathroom where the bathroom and shower stall are the exact same thing, with a hung curtain to separate the two but at least I’m the only one using it. I’ve met a couple of my roommates, an American girl whose mother is staying with her here until sometime middle of this week, a boy from Kazakstan by way of Moscow and a boy from India. There is at least one other person who lives in the flat I haven’t met, although today after I came in from the football games I saw two people sitting in the kitchen. I opened the door and we all just stared at each other and the older man was finally like “I’m taking a police report...” and I was like “um, why? Did something happen here” and then there was an extremely awkward silence and he goes “I need privacy to take the report.” I left as gracefully as possible, but I think perhaps if you need privacy, the police station would be better? Than the COMMUNAL kitchen? So that’s this week’s mystery. Who is this boy? And why was he in the kitchen making a police report?

Pros:

I seem to be able to understand people when they talk
Pharmacists can prescribe medicine
There is a bar, within walking distance, that is showing the Saints game tonight
They write, on the street, which direction you need to look before you cross. I think though, that if you were going to spend THAT much money to ensure people don’t get killed because you don’t have enough faith that your citizens can figure it out themselves because it’s backwards from everyone else in the world, that maybe you should just give up on the whole thing. 



Cons:
I don’t have internet in my dorm yet, because apparently you need to register at LSE first, and I don’t register until Friday. I also can’t use the computer room in the residence either for the same reason. This is a problem because I have a skype interview on Wednesday and I had planned to just hole up in my room to answer and that is no longer a viable option.
I also don’t have a bank account. This matters because you can’t get a phone contract without a bank account, so I am phoneless until then. I do have a phone in my room, but I don’t actually know how to use it.

End Note: 

I’m having a good time, things are going well. I bought a really really cool printer for way too much money. I’m in the market for a surfboard and a horse share. I’ve been emailing BJJ schools to see if I can find somewhere to train in the vicinity.

 If you’d like to send me something (or visit!) I’m at 

Shoshana Zimmerman
Room F401.6
Sidney Webb House
159 Great Dover Street
London, UK SE1 4WW

If you want a notice every time I post a new blog, you can sign up on the right. Love and miss you all!